Russian folk Russian costume
Russian national outfits are a combination of rich colors and a large number of details that create a complete image. Several centuries ago, just by one suit, it was possible to understand from which province or village its wearer came. In addition, Russian craftswomen created solemn outfits that were different from each other for each special event. You will learn about the history of the national costume and the details that create it in this article.
Features of the national costume
Russian traditional outfits have always been divided into everyday and festive ones. Our ancestors very clearly separated the simpler clothes made of coarse fabrics with a minimum of decorative elements from the more colorful dresses for special events. Red clothes were considered the most luxurious.
Initially, in Russia, all costumes were created by skillful female hands from dense homespun materials. It also made the outfits more special. The main materials for tailoring outfits were cloth, linen and silk. The role of the lining was played by kindyak, a special lining fabric.
The fabric base was complemented by a large number of details, as well as accessories and shoes, which together formed a harmonious image.
These images differed significantly from each other depending on the regions. So, for example, people from the northern regions of Russia put on more outerwear. It was both open and cape, and in some cases these two types of outfits were combined. The cape was worn over the head, while the swing was fastened with buttons or hook-and-loop fasteners.
Clothing for the nobility also deserves special attention. She, of course, was more expensive and luxurious. Outfits for the nobility were embroidered with gold or silver threads, decorated with pearls and other decorative elements. Such an expensive outfit was worn for more than one year. As a rule, it was passed down from generation to generation, keeping it in its proper form.
History of Russian costume
During its existence, the national Russian costume practically did not change. The concept of fashion was less changeable than it is now, so the same style could be worn by several generations of the same family.
Less common outfits in the traditional Russian style began in the early eighteenth century. Then the ancient Russian costume was banned by Peter the Great, who wanted to make Russia more modern. The national attire was replaced by costumes in the Hungarian style, and later in German and French. In order for the innovations to take root, the ruler introduced a duty on wearing traditional Russian dresses in the city.
Female
Dresses for women have always been more interesting and varied than men's. They were real examples of the art of talented Russian women.Since the time of Ancient Russia, a women's costume consisted of a shirt (a simple shirt on the floor), a sundress and an apron. Often, for additional warmth, another thick shirt was worn under the shirt.
Embroidery has always been an integral part of any traditional outfit. In each province, it differed in colors and patterns. The hem and sleeves were decorated with embroidery.
Noteworthy are the dresses worn by women in Russia. During the time of Ivan the Terrible, girls who dressed up in just one dress were considered obscene. It was customary to wear three dresses, one on top of the other. Such a suit turned out to be very heavy and massive.
Male
For men from a simple class, suits were sewn practical and comfortable. Russian culture has always been inseparable from nature and the earth. This was reflected in simple peasant clothes, which were sewn from natural fabrics and decorated with floral patterns.
The men's costume consisted of a simple shirt, trousers and a belt. The head was covered with felted wool sinner. Of the shoes, bast shoes were the most common. Light and comfortable, they protected the legs well while working in the field, but were not suitable for winter. With the advent of cold weather, the traditional Russian costume was supplemented with felt boots, and on holidays - with leather boots.
For kids
Children in Ancient Russia wore simpler clothes. As a rule, these were simple loose shirts. For the children of the nobility, outfits were created more refined. Sometimes they almost completely copied the adult costume. But young girls, unlike adult women, did not wear headdresses before marriage.
Features and meaning of details
As already mentioned, the details in the national Russian costume played a very important role.
Details of a man's suit
The basis of the national men's costume was a simple shirt. In the attire of ordinary peasants, she was the basis of the costume, while the nobility wore her as underwear. It was sewn from linen or silk. From the inside, the front and back of the shirt were complemented by a lining, which was called the underlay. The wide sleeves of the shirt narrowed to the wrist.
The appearance of the gate was different. It could be rounded, square, or completely absent. If there was a collar, then it was supplemented with ties or buttons.
Also, the costume was supplemented with such details as zipun, opashen and okhaben. All these things are varieties of caftans. Over a shirt and a caftan a scroll, a casing or a kermyaga was put on. For more solemn occasions, a ceremonial cloak (korzno) or a single row of woolen fabric was used.
Fur coats were also popular. Peasants wore simpler products made of dense sheepskin or hare fur. Representatives of the upper class allowed themselves to flaunt in outfits made of silver fox, sable or marten.
In order to keep warm inside, fur coats were sewn with fur inside. Outside, they were covered with thick cloth. Outfits for the nobility were embroidered with brocade or velvet. A wide fur collar gave luxury to a fur coat.
Traditional Russian-style fur coats were floor-length. The sleeves were also very long, and the hands were threaded not only into them, but also into special slots located in front. They were worn not only in winter, but also in summer, to create a solemn image.
Another important detail of the male Russian costume is a headdress in the national style. There were several types of hats: tafya, klobuk, murmolka and triukha.
Tafya was a small round hat that fit snugly to the head. A simple hat was often worn over it.Ordinary people chose options from felt, richer people - from velvet.
Murmolki called hats, high and expanding to the top. Throat caps were created according to a similar principle. Only they were additionally decorated with furs coming from the very throat. Fox, sable or hare fur both decorated the hat and warmed the head.
Details of women's costume
The basis of the women's national costume was also a shirt. It was decorated with embroidery or exquisite edging. Noble Russian ladies, over a simple undershirt, also put on a maid, sewn from bright silk. The most elegant option is a scarlet maid shirt.
Over the shirts of a woman they put on an summer coat. An old floor-length outfit was created from silk and complemented with clasps at the very throat. Noble women wore a flyer decorated with gold embroidery or pearls, and a necklace adorned their collar.
A fur coat was a warmer alternative to the summer coat in the national women's costume. A long fur coat with decorative sleeves was a sign of luxury, since it was not particularly practical. Hands were either passed through special slots under the sleeves, or into the sleeves themselves, which were rolled up for convenience. It was possible to warm the palms in a muff, which was not only decorated with a fur edge, but also stitched with fur from the inside.
An important role was played by such a detail of the costume as a headdress. All married women in Russia necessarily covered their hair, even while at home. In everyday life, the head was covered with a volosnik or a warrior, tying an elegant colorful scarf on top.
Corollas (wide bandages, complemented by long colorful ribbons), which were worn in summer, looked more elegant. In winter, they were replaced by fur hats.But the traditional Russian costume is still often associated with us with a kokoshnik - an elegant headdress in the form of a fan. If possible, he was richly decorated and became the main addition to the outfit.
National motifs in modern fashion or ethnic style
Although the traditional costume is now only part of the rich Russian history, many designers use its details to create modern outfits. Ethnic style is now in trend, so every fashionista should pay attention to such clothes.
Dresses in the Russian style should be restrained, because vulgarity, short skirts and too deep necklines are simply out of place here. One of the main values of our ancestors was chastity. Girls were required to dress modestly and discreetly, without flaunting their bodies. Modern outfits in the Russian ethnic style are created according to the same principle.
Dresses in the Russian style are decorated with exquisite floral patterns, hand embroidery, lace or printed designs. The hem and cuffs are decorated with fringe or elegant hemstitching.
The trend is natural fabrics and natural shades. Colors such as green, pistachio, red or beige look great. Sundresses can be either long, in a traditional style, or shorter. However, when choosing a dress of minimal length, be sure to complement your look with tight tights so that the look does not look too vulgar.
The length of the sleeves also varies. The cut of the dress can also be different. Look stylish, both fitted outfits and loose ones. An outfit with a flared skirt and a high waist in no way loses to a shirt-cut model.
But to create a full-fledged image in the Russian folk style, just one dress is not enough.Like our ancestors, women often complement the dress with various accessories and outerwear. In combination with such a dress, voluminous beads or earrings look great.
As a headdress, you can use an extravagant kokoshnik or a scarf embroidered with bright patterns. And put on a vest or coat over the dress. In cool weather, do not deny yourself the pleasure of complementing the image with a fur coat, a muff and a warm fur hat.
Russian national costume is a part of our history and at the same time a real source of inspiration for modern designers.
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