Bashkir national costume
A bit of history
The habitat of the Bashkir people is very extensive. As a result, there is a difference in culture. This was influenced by the habitat of the people and the natural zone in which it was located. So, for example, in one area, the main activity was cattle breeding, in another, agriculture, and in others, skillful skills. All this is combined and united in the Bashkir folk costume. High craftsmanship contributed to the combination of details into a complex ensemble, which is based on deep historical traditions.
It is known that there are seven variations of the national costume of the Bashkirs: northwestern Bashkirs, northeastern, southwestern, southeastern, central, eastern and Bashkirs of the Samara-Irgiz settlements. It's all about the habitats of the people, each costume characterizes a separate region.
Peculiarities
A characteristic feature of the costume was its layering. Regardless of weather conditions, the Bashkirs put on several layers of outer clothing under their underwear. Especially in such outfits were on national holidays.
One of the special outfits of the Bashkirs was outerwear called kazakin. It was a fitted suit, lined with sleeves, fastened with a blind button fastener.The uniqueness is that both men and women wore such a product. Yes, they were also used as clothing by military personnel.
- Colors and shades. Traditionally, natural shades are used in the creation of folk Bashkir costumes. The main colors are blue, black, green, red, brown and yellow. Other shades are also used, but they, as a rule, are not intended for everyday wear, but for festive costumes.
- Fabrics and cut. The clothes of the Bashkir people were created in order to keep warm in winter and comfortable in summer. And for religious reasons, the Bashkirs cannot afford to wear open clothes. Therefore, the national costume has a free cut. Usually these are long fitted robes, loose trousers and shirts. When choosing fabrics, preference is given to silk, velvet, satin. The decoration uses leather, fur, various beads, coins and embroideries.
Description of varieties
- Woman suit. The national women's costume has been formed for more than a dozen years and continues to acquire changes to this day. A distinctive feature of such clothes is wealth and luxury.
The main subject of the wardrobe of a Bashkir woman was a dress called kuldek. They decorated such a product with embroideries and fabric patterns. Wide necklines, inset gussets, twine on the chest and a turn-down collar - all this characterizes the cooldeck. At the beginning of the twentieth century, this outfit underwent changes, such as a lapel and tucks on the chest.
On the neck over the dress, women put on a bib. It was believed that such an attribute serves as a talisman against evil spirits.
Under the dress, it was customary to wear yshtan (kind of pants), and on top, decorated with silver coins, a camisole. They decorated it in various ways, it all depended on the region.
Another element of the festive attire was the apron, called alyapkys. Initially, women put on this apron for an hour of doing household chores, but over time it was modified and supplemented with festive decoration.
The wrap-around robes were also very famous. In the north, this product was called bishmet, in the south - elen. Such robes were made of plain cloth and decorated with coins. Both products are very similar in their cut, but there is a difference: the hem of the elen is flared, and the product itself is longer than the beshmet.
- Men's suit. The national men's costume is not so diverse and is more restrained in execution. Usually the image included a loose shirt resembling a tunic, narrow trousers and a light robe or camisole. Depending on the region, two types of shirts for men could be found. The first one, referring to the south, had a cut going down an oblique, it was fastened with a cord, and was distinguished by the absence of a collar. The second, belonging to the north, had a collar, and the cut line was straight.
As outerwear, men wore cloth chekmeni, dressing gowns in dark colors and a kezeki caftan, which had a flared cut, a stand-up collar and a blind fastener. By the quality of the fabric, it was possible to determine the level of wealth of the Bashkir. For example, low-income men wore a dressing gown made from the material of a woven house.
In winter, Bashkir men dressed in sheepskin coats and sheepskin coats.
The only male element of clothing was the belt. They were produced in several types: wool, cloth, belt and sash with a buckle. In case of a holiday, there was a separate kemer belt. It was distinguished by the presence of a jewelry buckle and patterned embroidery.
- Baby suit. The national costume for a girl reflects the characteristic features in the clothes of this people. It can be presented in the following form: a kuldek skirt, a kezeki sleeveless jacket and a headdress with a veil - takiya (for girls over 10 years old).
The ensemble for the boy repeats the national clothes of the Bashkir men. A laced shirt, trousers, a belt with a gold pattern - all this characterizes the image of a Bashkir boy.
Accessories and decorations
Bibs, backs, various pendants, bracelets and earrings were used as decorations and accessories. Such products were made with the help of coins, embroideries, metal plates, beads, shells, and in the last millennia, corals began to be actively used.
Outerwear was often decorated with appliqués. Along the edges of the products could be sewn a braid of red or gold color. This gave the outfit a special chic.
Another important point of the costume is the headdress. He could tell about the well-being of the owner, about the age of the woman, and sewn stones served as a talisman.
Women's headdresses were presented in a large assortment, and their decoration reflected the national color. The wives of wealthy men could afford a rich headdress called kashmau. This accessory was presented in the form of a hat with a hole at the top. The product was embroidered with corals, beads and pendants. A long ribbon descending to the back endowed the hat with individuality and beauty - the ribbon was embroidered with beads and a fringe was attached.
There was another kind of headdress for a married woman - calepush. It was a high hat, a cape was attached to it, which covered the ears and fell over the shoulders. They decorated the product, as well as kashmau, with beads and corals.
Girls walked without covering their heads, after the age of ten they put a scarf or skullcap on their heads.
Young women used caps as a headdress. They were made from cardboard, birch bark or leather. Tassels were attached to the cap, worn, shifting to the side. A scarf was worn over the top.
Older women wore a Tatar headdress, putting a fur hat on it.
Men's hats were not as diverse as women's. They singled out a skullcap and a hat made of fur. Men of the Muslim faith should not appear in society with their heads uncovered. Based on these motives, boys at an early age began to wear a headdress.
Older men wore dark-colored dresses, young men wore light-colored ones.
The festive attire of men, to give solemnity to the outfit, was sheathed with beads.
Shoes
Women's shoes were decorated with tassels. In not cold times, they put on bast shoes (sabata), under them it was certainly necessary to wear hosiery. They made hosiery from various materials (wool, cloth). Separately, in the wardrobe there were festive stockings embroidered with patterns and overlays.
Men also wore stockings, but they could replace them with footcloths. Itek and saryk boots were used as shoes. Ichigi were a festive version of boots, they were worn with galoshes. Upon entering the room, they took off their galoshes, remaining in boots.
The beauty of the wedding dress
The Bashkir wedding was prepared carefully and in advance. Clothes that served as wedding dresses for young people could be worn after the wedding on special holidays. For tailoring dresses, women were selected who were fluent in the art of embroidery, appliqué and patterned weaving.
The holiday was bright and rich.Bright colors of colorful women's dresses trimmed with various ribbons, puffy skirts, patterns and frills made the holiday colorful and interesting. Colors played an important role in wedding dresses. Red served as a symbol of the hearth. The red and white dress of the bride symbolized the sun, warmth and comfort. An ornament was embroidered along the edges of the dress - patterns, curls, spirals. Dressing gowns and camisoles were worn over the outfits.
A breast decoration embroidered with stones and coins was put on the bride's neck. By the richness of these decorations, one could judge the well-being of the family.
The bride's feet were adorned with white boots made of fine goat skin.
The bride's head was covered with a thin scarf embroidered along the edges.
For the groom, the bride had to embroider the wedding shirt with her own hands and hand it to the chosen one before the celebration. For this, a red cloth was used. A sleeveless camisole was worn over the shirt.
Loose-fitting pants, a skullcap and a belt completed the look. They, like a shirt, were prepared by the bride.
The groom also used white boots made of thin leather as shoes.