Anchor chain weaving

From year to year, in the form of heavy chains or light chains with a pendant, on the neck or wrist, on the ankle or waist, on bags or shoes, in the form of earrings or brooch pendants, anchor weaving shines on the catwalks of the most prestigious fashion weeks, film festivals, parties , corporate parties and quiet family celebrations.

Rockers and metalheads do not change him, fans of hip-hop are faithful to the end of time. Respectable gentlemen and respectable ladies, for whom status matters, opt for this weaving - from an ancient, although not always aristocratic, pedigree.

In English catalogs, anchor weaving should be looked for under the inscription "Cable", in Italian - "Forzatina". It is interesting that the inhabitants of the Apennine peninsula understand “Forzatina” as a chain with a diamond edge. In Russia, when they say “ordinary chain”, they certainly mean a product with traditional anchor weaving.

Weaving corresponds to its name and looks like a chain on which sailors attach an anchor. In the classic version, the links have the same size, oval shape and are connected in series perpendicular to each other. It is considered one of the strongest.

In ancient times, this invention became a breakthrough in jewelry art, because in its pure form, gold is not particularly durable, not to mention silver, which means that thin, elegant forms were inaccessible due to guaranteed deformation and kinks. In addition, the novelty made it possible to achieve flowing lines from the metal, providing an organic following to the curves of the body.

Among the finished products in the windows, there is often a Double anchor, also known as the Italian Bismarck - these are two parallel soldered chains with ordinary anchor weaving. The increase in rows is not limited by anything, such chains or bracelets are usually made by machine.

By changing the shape and size of the links, applying all sorts of wire section configurations and finishes, jewelers have created a whole family of anchor types. Currently, there are more than 70 varieties.

For example, according to the shape of the links, they distinguish:

• Venetian - the links are square or rectangle. Often used in a reinforced version: double, triple, etc.

• Rollo - from round links, which can be of different sizes and torsion. Other names for this type of chains can be found in the literature: French, Bagel, after the names of manufacturers Belzer or Chapard.

• Garibaldi - similar to Rollo, but the links are forked. Named after the national heroes of the Italian liberation movement, Giuseppe and Anita Garibaldi.

• Giotto (Curtain) - from large round links, no less than on curtain rods.

• Anchor diamond - has diamond-shaped links.

Connection method:

• sea ​​chain - classic elongated anchor links are attached to each other with a jumper, like a real ship's tackle.In the navy, this detail prevents entanglement, reduces friction between the links. In jewelry, the jumper is valued both for its ability to increase the service life and for its special aesthetics.

• Cord weaving - several links are connected through two or three links, which results in a twisted shape.

• Today, chains and bracelets of fantasy weaving are popular, where details of different scale and configuration are assembled in one product. Of the anchor topics, the most famous are Aurora and Hawaii.

• For the manufacture of chains, in addition to the usual round, jewelers use diamond-shaped, in the form of a polyhedron or triangular metal threads. Titles Anchor trihedral or triangular anchor indicates the shape of the section. To give lightness to volumetric products, hollow tubes are used. Such a chain looks great, but is more brittle compared to its full-fledged counterparts and, as a rule, cannot be repaired.

Anchor weaving looks good in any metal, amber and even plastic, it all depends on the purpose, but there is always a special attitude towards precious jewelry. Therefore, owners often cover silver, copper and aluminum products with gilding. They are not suitable for everyday wear, the decorative layer is erased too quickly, but it does not make sense to keep it in a treasured box for a long time: gold on a silver product quickly fades. Copper in a gold-plated chain in this respect has at least a slight, but an advantage.

To improve the performance of gold, it is mixed with other metals - ligature. By changing the composition and proportions in the alloy itself, manufacturers achieve strength, as well as the most unusual colors and shades.

White gold - obtained with the addition of silver, palladium or platinum. Nickel in the composition of gold white alloys is an ambiguous acquisition, 8% of people are allergic to it.

Yellow gold is an affordable alloy with silver and copper. In different proportions gives different shades. The more copper, the brighter the color of the alloy. The minimum copper content (about 5%) gives yellow gold a slightly greenish tint.

Rose gold is a classic feminine theme, also contains silver and copper, but much more copper is used. Such a misalliance, in addition to obtaining an unusual color, has another plus - it increases the strength, which means the durability of the jewelry.

Red gold is a product of the synthesis of gold, copper and zinc. Has many shades. A very ancient alloy recipe, used by the Indians of pre-Columbian America.

Black and blue gold is obtained in the process of natural oxidation, after vacuum "baking" with chromium and cobalt.

Ready-made gold wire can also be processed to obtain the desired color or shade. For example, coating with a thin film of black rhodium makes it possible to obtain a noble silvery shade of different saturation. To imitate antique jewelry, the products are matted.

Precious metal products must be tested and certified in accordance with international standards.

It is worth clarifying that the process of creating a chain among professionals is called viscous. Knitted in three ways: machine, manual and stamping. There is only one technological task - to cut elements of the same length, give them a shape and fasten them together.

Durable, high quality and elegant - products made personally by the jeweler.But there are restrictions on the thickness of the metal threads that a specialist can work with, and it takes a lot of time to complete an order. The pinnacle of hand-knitting is considered to be the work of the Centaurus workshop: with a chain length of 50 cm, its weight is only 4.12 grams, although similar handicrafts usually start, at best, only from 7 grams.

Each method has its pros and cons. Machine knitting allows you to produce the smallest links in thickness - from 0.2 mm. When stamping - already from 0.35 mm, but soldering is not required, costs are reduced, which affects prices, and the chain itself becomes stronger.

Many jewelry models require additional processing. According to the method of such a final mechanical finishing, the chains are:

• knocked together - the links or the finished product are deformed to give a new shape. One example is the Moscow bit, made up of curved classic anchor links with an additional bridge for fastening at the bend.

• with a diamond cut - notches are applied to the jewelry, one or more new faces are created along the entire length of the product. The resulting surface becomes a mirror and, under the rays of light, radiates radiance, sparkles like a precious stone. In anchor weaving, the diamond edge is used quite rarely.

A well-made anchor chain, even with active use, can be guaranteed to last at least 15 years, with proper care it can also be inherited.

So that the anchor chain does not lose its luster, it is not necessary to scrub it like sailors. For this, there are special soft pastes or solutions.

Even with the most careful care, chains age and become unusable, after which breaks begin. The suspension life is almost halved for them, which literally saw several load-bearing links for years. The same degree of load in the areas of the fastener.

Signs of chain wear:

• Elongation - starts at 50% wear. A half-meter thread can be extended by 6 cm.

• Stepping - is well detected if you wind the chain around your finger or with a little tension. The erased areas enter into each other and form steps, which only under external influence return to their places.

• By removing used parts, you can only temporarily extend the life of the jewelry by six months or a year. After the 3rd break, repair work does not make sense.

So do not languish over gold, but to shackle yourself is the time. Ladies wear from the thinnest to giant anchors around the neck, like Louis Vitton and Marc Jacobs. Fantasy, graceful and rough with large pendants and pendants, like Chloé, Christopher Kane, Alexander Wang and Hermès. A large anchor chain in the style of a football hooligan is also relevant for men, both in 2017 and next season. In Milan, Ermenegildo Zegna, MSGM, Versace, Ports 1961 and Dsquared2 voted for this decision.